Steven Kolb has resigned as president and CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, ending a two-decade run at the organization less than a week after a confrontation with PETA protesters went viral.
Kolb announced his departure in a statement released Friday, saying he believed it was the right time for both himself and the CFDA to begin new chapters. Notably, his resignation message did not mention the incident that had led the organization to place him on leave days earlier.
That confrontation unfolded September 13th at COS’ New York Fashion Week show, where animal-rights activists disrupted the presentation to protest the fashion industry’s use of wool. Video showed Kolb leaving his seat and physically restraining two protesters, including holding one on the floor and covering her mouth. He later acknowledged that his response was wrong and said security should have handled the situation instead.
The CFDA placed Kolb on leave pending a full review. By Friday, however, the executive who had spent 20 years at the organization, including 15 as CEO, had decided to step down. Neither Kolb nor the CFDA has publicly said that the protest incident was the reason for his resignation.
Kolb’s Resignation Statement Does Not Mention the Protest Incident
Kolb’s resignation focused almost entirely on his years at the CFDA and what the organization accomplished during his leadership. “After twenty years leading the CFDA, I have made the difficult decision to step down as CEO and President,” he wrote. “I am enormously proud of what we have built together and believe this is the right moment for both me and the organization to begin a new chapter.”
He pointed to the CFDA’s stronger financial position, expanded programs and partnerships, philanthropic and scholarship work, support for emerging designers, sustainability initiatives and efforts to create opportunities for creatives from underrepresented communities.
Kolb also thanked the four CFDA chairs he worked alongside: Stan Herman, Diane von Furstenberg, Tom Ford and current chairman Thom Browne. “What I am most proud of is the impact we have had on American designers supporting creativity and helping businesses grow,” he wrote.
Leaving after two decades was “deeply emotional,” Kolb added, but he said he remained proud of the organization’s work and confident in its future. Reuters reported that no successor had been named immediately following his departure.
The Viral Video Showed Kolb Physically Restraining Two Protesters
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At least five PETA representatives disrupted the show, according to Fashionista, whose journalists were seated close to the confrontation and captured video of what happened. The Associated Press later reported that PETA said six of its employees were present, with three intending to disrupt the runway and three filming.
Several demonstrators entered or approached the runway carrying signs protesting the use of wool. Security removed most of them, but Kolb personally intervened with two others. The protesters were identified by PETA as Andrija Barak and Mason Melito.
Video showed Kolb taking Barak’s sign, covering her mouth and restraining her on the floor with his arms and one leg. He was separately filmed pushing Melito and placing his hand over his mouth.
The Associated Press, Reuters and The Washington Post independently described the footage as showing Kolb physically restraining the two activists.
Kolb Said There Was ‘No Justification’ for His Response
Later that Sunday, he acknowledged that he had reacted inappropriately. “I reacted inappropriately to an incident at a show earlier today,” he said. “It wasn’t my place to do so. I should have let the security team handle the situation.”
His response became more detailed the following day. “My actions were wrong, and I am deeply sorry,” Kolb wrote. “I take full responsibility for my actions.” He said there was “no justification for physically restraining another person” and reiterated that professional security personnel should have dealt with the disruption.
Kolb apologized to the protesters and to people who witnessed the incident. He also said he would take a voluntary leave, seek professional guidance and accept PETA’s invitation to meet. “I hope to have the opportunity to apologize in person to the two individuals who did not deserve that treatment,” he wrote, according to Vogue.
PETA Backed Away From Plans for a Police Report
The organization accused Kolb of assaulting its activists and said on September 13th that it intended to file a police report and pursue criminal charges. That position changed within days.
Moira Colley, PETA’s senior director of media relations in New York, told NBC New York that the organization had decided not to file a police report after a visit to police and consultation with attorneys.
Instead, PETA planned to meet with Kolb and show him footage it says documents mistreatment of sheep in wool production. Kolb had agreed to the meeting, although a time had not yet been set when Colley spoke to the outlet. “We are willing to drop everything if we reach an understanding that benefits the animals,” she said.
Colley credited Kolb with previously helping eliminate fur from shows on the official CFDA fashion calendar and said the organization hoped he would take a similar position on wool and other animal-derived materials.
The Protest Was Directed at COS and Parent Company H&M
The protesters were targeting COS, which is owned by Sweden’s H&M Group, as part of PETA’s campaign urging the retailer to stop selling wool.
PETA has cited an investigation by PETA Asia into a NATIVA-certified South African wool operation that it says was connected to a supply chain used by H&M Group. The organization says footage showed workers kicking and striking sheep, dragging animals by their legs and leaving some with wounds after shearing.
H&M has said it sources wool through certified or recycled channels and points to animal-welfare standards including the Responsible Wool Standard.
COS itself is not a CFDA member and is not an American label. Its New York show nevertheless became one of the week’s prominent presentations, drawing guests including Sharon Stone, Michelle Williams, Lupita Nyong’o and John Boyega, according to Fashionista.
The CFDA Praised Kolb as It Accepted His Departure
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In its September 18th statement, the organization called Kolb a “dedicated leader and tireless champion of American fashion” and noted that he had spent more than two decades at the CFDA, including 15 years as CEO.
“We respect Steven’s decision to step down and are grateful for his many years of leadership and service to the CFDA and our industry,” the organization said. The CFDA said Kolb was leaving the organization well positioned, with a clear mission and team in place to continue its work.
His tenure included an expansion of programs for emerging designers, scholarships and philanthropic initiatives, sustainability and circularity efforts, support for New York Fashion Week and programs intended to broaden opportunities for underrepresented creatives. Kolb joined the CFDA in 2006 and became CEO in 2011.
The organization now has to choose a new executive leader while its board remains chaired by Thom Browne. Reuters reported that the board includes designers including Vera Wang, Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors.